The Green Fairy's Valley - Val de Travers
Walk the valley where absinthe was born, banned in secret for a century, and reborn — past the tallest fir in Switzerland and the forest that taught the world a new way to grow trees
This is a story of Borders & Time
A one-day walk down the Val-de-Travers that follows the Green Fairy through her exile, her cradle and her rebirth. The day starts in Môtiers, absinthe capital and the village where Rousseau spent his exile. From there we enter the forêt jardinée, the forest that Henry Biolley rescued from clear-cutting in 1881, home of the Sapin Président — at 58 metres the tallest tree in Switzerland, germinated around 1744, when absinthe was still just a remedy. Then to Couvet, where a doctor's medicinal elixir became the world's most famous — and most forbidden — drink. The day ends with a visit to a working distillery and a tasting.
No drink has a story like absinthe. It starts in Couvet around 1770 with a homemade remedy, becomes a small distillery in 1798 — Dubied Père & Fils, with a young Henri-Louis Pernod, born at Le Locle, at the stills — and explodes when Pernod opens his own house at Pontarlier in 1805. By 1910 the world drank 36 million litres a year; then panic and prohibition banished it, and for nearly a century the valley distilled in secret — local pharmacies kept the "medicinal" alcohol flowing to clandestine distillers until the ban was lifted in 2005. The walk threads this story through a landscape of its own time capsule: the forêt jardinée of Couvet, where Biolley replaced clear-cutting with the single-tree selection now studied by foresters from five continents, and whose Président fir grows fifteen centimetres a year at 280 years old. In Môtiers, absinthe meets philosophy: Rousseau lived his exile here from 1762 to 1765, in the same valley that would soon distil the drink of French soldiers and Parisian poets. Ends with a guided tasting in a distillery and optional visit of Maison de l'absinthe.

Morning — train to Môtiers; the absinthe stories of the village; Rousseau's house; the fountain ritual in the forest: how the valley drank in secret. Waterfall and forest hike on the sentier de la forêt jardinée to the Sapin Président (58 m, tallest tree in Switzerland, second in Europe).
Midday — picnic in the forêt jardinée or lunch at the historic asphalt mines (La Presta).
Afternoon — descend to Couvet, distillery visit; stories of the pharmacy and prohibition; train back from Couvet with optional stop at Maison de l'absinthe in Môtiers (if opening hours allow).
Gear list
Rainproof backpack (approx. 25 liters)
Personal belongings and medication, telephone
Tick repellent
(High) hiking shoes with profiled / Vibram soles
Warm hiking clothes, at least:
1st technical layer, e.g. wool (avoid cotton), also for legs in case of low temperatures or wind
2nd warm layer with fleece jacket plus down (puff) jacket
Long pants and hiking jacket
If not waterproof: provide additional protection against rain. Evt. umbrella
Sunglasses, sun cream, hat, possibly a pair of light gloves
1 liter of water minimum, 2 liters maximum, possibly a thermos
Snacks, dried fruit, etc.
Walking sticks, camera, binoculars (recommended)
The hike (public version) is confirmed as soon as the minimum number of participants is reached.
The hike may be postponed in case of extreme weather conditions.
Payment: on site at the end of the hike. Cancellations within 10 days of the start: 100% of the fee; 11–30 days before: 50%.
Included
Guiding services by a professional Mountain leader with Swiss federal diploma
Guide tea and snacks / cake
Presentation of the Absinthe theme during the hike
Explanations about the region, its nature and landscape
Observations of fauna, flora, geology. We will discuss various aspects related to the forest and its trees, its role in biodiversity and our relationship with it
Poles as per available stock
Not included
Private / public transportation
Picnic / lunch
Distillery visit & absinthe tasting, approx. CHF 15 pp., paid on site

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